May 31, 2019 Friday Annapolis Yacht Basin, Annapolis, MD to Bohemia River confluence, MD 46.6 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 2 ft
Along the Way
Final morning stroll before heading
A final few beautiful Chesapeake
Bay pictures before cross Chesapeake Bay mile 0 first thing tomorrow morning. It
is slowly getting narrower.
Most of Americas Great Loop Cruising Association (AGLCA) members use a free phone app called Nebo. It allows registered Nebo users to track their cruises and better yet, find each other. AGLCA users are identified with the AGLCA icon and their boat name. Non- AGLCA users are simply displayed as a dot with their boat name.
Bummer. We had hoped to meet the Legendary Foster on boat QUO VADIMUS. He is the AGLCA Upper Chesapeake and C&D Canal Harbor Host. He and his wife Susan did the loop a couple years ago. Both Dale and Mary have read his blog. Unfortunately Foster and Susan have commitments out of the marina tonight. ( QUO VADIMUS is in the rightside picture above) There is always the next loop through….
The next time you think our government works too slowly, ponder this: The 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, giving women the vote, took 42 years for all the states to ratify (1878 – 1920).
38°58’29.5″N 76°29’05.3″W 38.974848, -76.484801 Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 2 ft
Breakfast at Chick and Ruth’s Delly. Pledge of Allegiance is said M-F at 8:30 and 9:30 on Saturday and Sunday. Breakfast was a half-pound jumbo blue crab cakes. They were the best we’ve ever eaten. I’m going to have to stop eating them now because nothing else will ever compare. If you are EVER in Annapolis you must have one at Chick and Ruth’s Delly.
Along the Way
Off to the Naval Academy
Naval Academy Chapel
John Paul Jones crypt in the bottom level of the chapel. He is known as the father of America’s Navy
US Naval Academy Museum, Preble Hall
English shipwright-modelers built scale models of ships (dock models) from ~1600 to 1830’s . The second floor of the museum had fifty models on display, donated by a private collector. Each model was an incredible work of craftsmanship. It was as overwhelming as the Smithsonian Museums. Zoom in on the pictures to truly enjoy the details!!!!!
During the French Revolution and Empire Wars (1793-1815) thousands of French sailors and soldiers were captured and incarcerated in English prisons. Prisoners of war whittled away time carving bones from their meat rations and sticks, putting together models with what every they could find. The prisoners could sell the models at public open fairs in the prison or near by markets. Working singly or in teams they produced decorative boxes, game boards, spinning jennies, guillotines and vessels. With their profits they could by food or clothing from the town merchants.
The first floor had traditional Navy History.
Maryland State House (Capital) and about town
We also stopped for a 12 pack on the way home.
Annapolis is the oldest state
capitol in continuous legislative use. It once served as the capital of the
fledgling United States in 1783 – 1784 where the Continental Congress would
meet. It is also where the Treaty of Paris was signed.
Four of the 56 signatures found on
the Declaration of Independence came from residents of Annapolis, Maryland:
William Paca, Samuel Chase, Charles Carroll, and Thomas Stone.
John Paul added “Jones” in later life to hide from law enforcement for a killing a man that he claimed was in self-defense.
Figurehead Origin: An ornamental figure placed on the front of a ship, under the. Originally a religious and/or protective emblem. The custom continued but for purely decorative purposes. Hence the term figurehead – a leader with no real power or function except to ‘look good’ or appeal to a certain group.
Know the ropes It’s a whole different perspective once you looked at the ship models. There are miles of roles in in the rigging. A sailor needed to know the principals for each type of sail. The only way of keeping track of the rope functions was to memorize where each of them went. It took an experienced sailor to “know the ropes”.
Drolleries and Yuks
Downtown restaurant sign.
Show a little leg Mary and turn out! A storm is coming!
May 29, 2019 Wednesday Solomon Island, MD to Annapolis Yacht Basin, Annapolis,
MD 46.2 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 2 ft
Show a little leg Mary and turn out! A storm is coming! Mariners warnings have been issued for the Annapolis area. Severe thunderstorms and possible tornados are predicted for 4PM and 6PM. We called to reserve a slip at the Annapolis Yacht Basin. They said get here by 3PM so there was time to tie-up before the storms hits.
Alright. Alright. We were under way at 8AM…..
Along the Way
The run to Annapolis
Four anchoring near Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse outside of Annapolis. I wonder how they calculate anchor rode scope.
Annapolis Harbor, Spa Creek
Not to be caught in a storm again we slipped in our marina at 2:30PM. Whew.
With no storm in sight we bravely ventured out.
The 4PM severe weather storm went to the north of Annapolis. The 6PM storm went to the south. Annapolis didn’t get a drop.
Annapolis, the capital of Maryland was originally called “Providence” when first settled by the Puritans. The owner of the proprietary colony later renamed the city after his wife, “Anne Arundel’s Towne.” Sir Francis Nicholson decided to rename the small seaport Annapolis, in honor of Princess Anne, heir to the throne. The Queen herself declared Annapolis a city in 1708.
Annapolis is the only capital city in America east of the Mississippi River without any rail transportation.
Show a leg and turn out – wake up (show yourself) and get out of bed Origin: Boatswain’s mate calling the crew up from their hammocks. A leg our of the hammock or sitting up was enough to show him they were awake.
Take the wind out of his sails – diminish one’s enthusiasm, excitement, advantage or positive outlook (about something) Origin: Sailing in a manner so as to steal or divert wind from another ship’s sails.
When we are on our boat and a tornado is close, where do we go? The engine room?
May 28, 2019 Tuesday Colonial Beach, VA to Solomon Island, MD 62.9 nautical miles.
38°19’43.5″N 76°27’05.3″W 38.328736, -76.451464 Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 1.5 ft
Some days there ain’t much happening II. It wasn’t inspiring enough yesterday to get the blog post out so I waited until we were underway this morning.
Along the Way
We took it on the beam for the better part of the morning in snotty weather. It cleared up and turned hot once we left the Potomac and headed north on the Chesapeake.
Getting fuel and a pump out was the highlight of the day. Dale has an ongoing challenge fueling the boat without spilling a single drop fuel. He solved the biggest part of the problem a while back when he put a check valve on the fuel lines. The remaining part of the challenge is that some of the fuel nozzles are not standard.
Testing out the new $50 ‘Clean Way Fuel Fill’ adapter. Didn’t work as advertised but the jury is out on whether or not it will work.
Working on yesterdays’ blog. Mary’s little helper landed on her laptop while she was editing the first picture of him.
Hot nights are hot nights. Although we have good insulation in the salon floor above the engine room heat still bleeds through. It takes a while for the engines to cool down after running all day. On really hot nights we run the generator and A/C for about 2 hours to dissipate the heat, then open the windows. This is the second night in a row we had to do this.
We had heard Solomon Island was a fun place to stay, Maybe so. We didn’t even drop the dingy. It’s a cute harbor but there isn’t much to do there except hit the restaurants and bars. Believe it or not the Tobins passed on that.
Snotty weather – Drizzly and grey
Beam – The beam of a ship is its width at the widest point as measured at the ship’s nominal waterline. On the Beam – projected at right-angles from the fore and aft line, outwards from the widest part of ship.
Jim Beam is not a Nauti Word. Sailors are rummys not bourbonites.
May 26, 2019 Sunday Potomac River, Washington,
DC 0 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 1 ft
Living large we cracked open the
slush fund to stay another day.
Along the Way
Scooters to the National Mall. We took advantage of the streets closed in preparation for Rolling Thunder.
We hit 3 Smithsonian. So little time too much to look at. Each room in each gallery in each museum alone is completely overwhelming. Absolutely too much to take in in a single day, but we tried.
National Gallery of Art
National Museum of Natural History
We had to hit the ‘Oh WOW’ rooms first – National Gem Collection and the Minerals and Gems Rooms. Then charged on to the other rooms!
We also got to see an Egyptian mummified snake. Mummified snake? It was right there with the mummified dog and the mummified ox.
National Museum of American History
Rolling Thunder 4 hours later….. still rolling.
Woo Woo! We were able to catch up with friends’ daughter Kelly H.
We are so glad you stopped by Kelly
The Capitol building was not
designed by an American. William Thornton was a British doctor. Similarly, the
White House was designed by an Irish architect, James Hoban.
The Smithsonian is named for an Englishman, James Smithson, who never set foot on American soil.
No one can figure out what the Tyrannosaurs Rex’s arms were used for. They are too short to reach it’s mouth.
Slush fund – an unregulated reserve of money often used for illicit purposes Origin: A slushy slurry of fat was obtained by boiling or scraping the empty salted meat storage barrels. This stuff called “slush” was often sold ashore by the ship’s cook for the benefit of himself or the crew. The money so derived became known as a slush fund.
Overwhelm – strong emotional
feeling that takes over, feeling defeated, being overcome or to describe a
situation that’s ‘too much.
Origin: Old English for capsize or founder.
Middle English for ‘capsizing’ or ‘overturning a
May 25, 2019 Saturday The Wharf on the Potomac River, Washington, DC 0 nautical miles
38°52’49.2″N 77°01’42.9″W 38.880323, -77.028569 Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 1 ft
Along the Way
First item on the agenda was to hit up a marina store for line and parts to make a new anchor bridle to replace the one that broke in the storm last Thursday.
We also got advice on good anchorages and stops, and where to not purchase fuel.
The Main Avenue Fish Market is just outside our dock. All kinds of fresh seafood is available in any size and any quantity. Shrimp, crabs, oysters, clams, lobsters, octopus and many, many different kinds of fish.
People buy their shrimp/crab then take it over to get steamed. The seafood is placed in wooden half-bushel baskets in steamers. When done they are pulled and packaged.
Planes, trains and automobiles. Helicopters, buses, motorcycles, bicycles and scooters. It’s all here at the Wharf. Lots of them! And loud!
Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum
The oldest fish market in the United States is in Washington, D.C. The Maine Avenue Fish Market opened its doors in 1805.
Potomac Distilling Company Thrasher’s Rum is a James Beard Award finalist.
May 24, 2019 Friday Potomac River, Rison, MD to The Wharf on the Potomac River, Washington, DC 26.6 nautical miles.
38°52’49.2″N 77°01’42.9″W 38.880323, -77.028569 Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 1 ft
It was a beautiful, calm overnight.
Not even a ripple across the great river. The alarm clock for the windy went
off at 7:30 am. Wave quickly built. Time to pull anchor and get under way.
Along the Way
In the hood (George Washington’s Neighborhood)
If George Washington really through a silver dollar across the Potomac he either had a really strong arm or it wasn’t here. The Potomac is a just under a mile wide here. It is 8 miles wide where it enters the Chesapeake. Furthermore, why didn’t he just throw a rock?
As we rounded the bend in the river we got first glimpse of the Woodrow Wilson Bridge in Alexandria, VA and the Washington Monument in DC.
National Harbor and Aeronautical Smithsonian
US Naval Research Labratory
Heading into our marina
The area was filled with students on class trips. Some of the Mom’s shepherding them looked a little harried.
Special Exhibit near Lincoln Memorial
On to the White House
Back to the boat through the National Mall
The movie Forrest Gump was playing on the mall later tonight. Looper Midnight is 9:00 pm so we went back to the boat. And then walked the Warf till true midnight
The sculptor behind the statue in the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial was Chinese artist Master Lei Yixin. He sculpted 80 percent of the artwork in China, had it transported to the U.S., and then finished the rest on site in D.C. It is made out of 59 pieces of Chinese granite. The memorial is one of four monuments on the National Mall dedicated to a non-president.
The familiar home of all presidents in Washington D.C. was known as the “Presidential Palace” until President Theodore Roosevelt started referring to it as the “White House” on presidential stationery in 1901.
There are 35 bathrooms in the White House. If you are counting there are also 132 rooms, 6 levels, 412 doors, 147 windows, 28 fireplaces, 8 staircases, and 3 elevators.
May 23, 2019 Thursday Lake Conoy, Scotland, MD (NW corner of Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay junction) to Potomac River, Rison, MD 69.7 nautical miles.
38°31’47.4″N 77°14’32.8″W 38.529823, -77.242436 Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 1.5 feet
We parted ways with THE BLESSING early this morning. They are on to Annapolis and we decided last night to go to DC.
Along the Way
The earlier explorers and merchant seamen on the Chesapeake Bay must have been true adventurers (or fricking crazy). Water was snotty leaving the anchor.
Bombs away! We went through a Navy active firing range. Instructions were to stay well to the starboard of the yellow buoys as there was a tight range today. We edged forward as instructed.
Could we get our money back? Only one boom and we didn’t see it because it was further up the river around a bend. 🙁
The Potomac River looks a lot like the Mississippi River in Minnesota with the trees and all.
Sécurité, sécurité, sécurité – all stations, all stations, all stations. There is a mariner weather warning for the Potomac River.
Yup. They were right. The quick moving storm came earlier than projected, before we could get to the protected anchorage we were heading for. Instead we pulled into shore and tossed anchor to wait it out. Half way into the storm our anchor bridle broke releasing 200 feet of anchor rode. Dale tossed on life jacket and raced to the bow. He caught and stopped the free flow of anchor rode just in time before it got to the bitter end. By this time the waves were 4 feet and growing. Mary held the helm steady as she goes so we didn’t get pushed into shore by the punishing waves. It was raining so hard Mary could barely see Dale on the bow of the boat.
Put the camera down!!!!
Stuff got tossed around
After the storm
Legend has it that Captain John Smith named the Potomac River from an Indian word meaning “where tribute is brought”.
Usually rivers between states are owned equally by both states. Not true with the Potomac. Maryland owns the Potomac River up to DC. Virginia’s ownership begins at the high tide line. DC owns the river above the Woodrow Wilson Bridge.
Nauti Words Edge Forward Origin: Inch-by-inch progress, First used in the 17th century, referring to slow advance by means of repeated small tacking movements.
Steady as she goes Origin: Instruction from the captain to the helmsman of a ship, to keep the ship heading steadily on the same course regardless of gusts of wind or cross-currents.
Bitter end Origin: A bitt is a post fastened in the deck of a ship, for fastening cables and ropes. When a rope is played out to the bitter end, it means there is no more rope to be used.
May 22, 2019 Wednesday Hampton River Cedar Point, Hampton, VA to Lake Conoy, Scotland, MD (NW corner of Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay junction) 71.3 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tides: 2.0 feet
Along the Way
Another BIG water day.
It’s definitely a better day coming out into the Chesapeake today than yesterday. But it was still seriously lumpy. It calmed down 6 miles out once we were away from the James River and Chesapeake Bay junction.
In 2005 Smith Point Light went up for auction under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act, and was purchased for $170,000 by David McNally, a builder from Winona, Minnesota. The light remains in service as an active aid to navigation.
How much deeper would the ocean be if sponges didn’t grow in it?
May 21, 2019 Tuesday Great Dismal
Swamp State Park, South Mills, NC to Hampton River Cedar Point, Hampton, VA 42.9 nautical miles.
37°01’07.8″N 76°20’25.3″W 37.018826, -76.340350 Elevation: 0 ft
Mary went through her 3rd
set of clothing by 8:30 am, 4th if you counted her nightie. First
change ready for the day, second change needed warmer clothing, third change
Along the Way
Opportunity presented it self at the Deep Creek Bridge and Lock. We rafted to the town dock and made a grocery run (well, walk).
Just like the South Mills Lock on the south side the swamp there is a lift bridge and then a lock. The lock master first opened the bridge then drove down to manage the lock. Great Lock Master! He collects conch shells from boaters passing through to line the walkway of the lock station. I wish I had an extra to give him.
Back to civilization
Semper fortis (Latin: Always strong) is the unofficial motto of the United States Navy.
Mini air craft carriers and the hospital ship
The entry to Chesapeake Bay is guarded by two forts
We didn’t get too far into the Chesapeake Bay before we decide the waves were a little more than we wanted. Heading into them wasn’t too bad but we’d be taking it on the beam for the next 2 hours. We turned around and found a sheltered anchorage in Hampton and dingyed in with THE BLESSING to see the town of Hampton.
Dang it was a cool evening. Both the Canadians and the Minnesotans had their sweatshirts and jackets on.
We are anchored along Hampton University.
The Battle of the Monitor and the Merrimack is also called the Battle of Hampton Roads. It was fought over two days, March 8–9, 1862, in Hampton Roads, a roadstead in Virginia where the Elizabeth and Nansemond rivers meet the James River just before it enters Chesapeake Bay. The first meeting in combat of ironclad warships happened less than a mile from our anchorage.
Where did the name Department of Interior come from when
they are in charge of everything outdoors?
May 20, 2019 Monday Elizabeth City,
NC to Great Dismal Swamp State Park, South Mills, NC 21.6 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft
Along the Way
We heard lots of birds but didn’t see many
Bringing home breakfast
Entering into the 21 mile long Washington Canal through the Great Dismal Swamp.
Waiting for South Mills Lock to open
Stout beer colored water.
One the lock was re-opened the lock master quickly drove down to the lift bridge and opened it.
Reflections in the water
Great Dismal Swamp Visitor Center
Visitor center displays
The Great Dismal was called “great,” possibly because of its size and “dismal” because that was a common term at the time for a swamp or morass.
Drain the Swamp! Not a new idea…. In 1793 George Washington proposed draining the swamp and harvesting the timber (cypress for ship building and cedar for shingles) then farming the land. He and other prominent business man bought 40,000 acres of swamp land and began to drain the swamp. Washington first supervised the digging from the swamp to Drummond Lake (primarily slave labor). The canal through the Great Dismal was completed in 1805 and is known as the Washington cut.
Do you think George Washing rode his white horse down here?
Shiver me timbers Origin: One meaning of shiver, which is now largely forgotten, is ‘to break into pieces’. So, the sailor’s oath shiver my timbers, is synonymous with let my boat breaks into pieces. The question is whether any real sailor used the term or whether it was just a literary invention.
**Robert Louis Stevenson Treasure Island, 1883: “Well, he [Old Pew] is dead now and under hatches; but for two year before that, shiver my timbers, the man was starving!” **Frederick Marryat’s Jacob Faithful, 1834:”I won’t thrash you Tom. Shiver my timbers if I do.” **James Froude’s Caesar; a sketch, 1879:”As he crossed the hall, his statue fell, and shivered on the stones.”
May 18, 2019 Sunday Alligator
River, NC to Elizabeth City, NC 44.0 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft
Along the Way
The Albemarle Sound was 11 miles wide where we crossed it.
Dragon flies and damsel files.
Elizabeth City thru a party for us right in the middle of town.
Needing exercise we took the long way home and walked around the town.
Oscar Mayer has 6 hot dog vehicles. They hire first year out college graduates for a period of one year to drive the weeny wagons. So far Ketchup Kyle has driven to 42 states!
All at sea: In a state of confusion and disorder. Origin: It dates from the days of sail when accurate navigational aids weren’t available. Any ship that was out of sight of land was in an uncertain position and in danger of becoming lost.
May 18, 2019 Saturday Oriental
Marina, Oriental, NC to Alligator River, NC 73.6 nautical miles.
35°39’01.4″N 76°02’21.0″W 35.650376, -76.039173 Elevation: 0 ft
Along the Way
Relegated to taking pictures of seagulls…..
The 21 mile Alligator River-Pungo River Canal was completed in 1928. It was the last remaining link of the 1,090 Atlantic ICW. Nice to have autopilot
Whoa! They have a different kind of horsefly here. Bigger. About the size of the tip of Mary’s thumb. They followed us to the lower helm hot chase.
Whoa! The 1 and 3/16 mile Preakness Race, second leg of the Triple Crown, length of track was run today. It is 3/16 longer than the Kentucky Derby. War of Will took top honors.
From the Horse’s Mouth – getting information directly from the most reliable source Origin: From the 1900s, when buyers determined a horse’s age by examining its teeth. It’s also why you shouldn’t “look a gift horse in the mouth,” as inspecting a gift is considered bad etiquette.
Hot Chase – Chasing or pursuing someone or something very closely or with great energy or zeal. Origin: A principle of naval warfare, though without basis in law, that allowed a fleeing enemy to be followed into neutral waters and captured there if the chase had begun in international waters. The term hot pursuit or hot chase derives from this ‘principle’.
May 17, 2019 Friday Topsail Sound,
Surf City, NC to Oriental Marina, Oriental,
NC 79.9 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tide: n/a but I wonder
I did it! No houses. No docks. No
boats. Now if I only had this much self-control over my diet…..
Along the Way
Atlantic ICW follows closely along
the Atlantic coast in this section.
Targets and target practice.
Campy ICW dirt marinas along the Atlantic coast and ICW.
We broke the bank today! We entered the Outer Banks waterways.
The above picture is a ship. Mary took the picture. Dale took the below boat pictures.
Mary’s Rant of the Day since she can’t write about houses, boats
Georgia and the Carolinas have a
bad reputation for having an insufficient number of ATONs (Aids to Navigation).
I disagree with that sentiment. If Georgia
and the Carolinas put of all the necessary ATONs it would be like having a picket fence on both sides the
Read your charts!!!! A good pilot should always follow the charted channels, magenta lines while monitoring ATONs, water depth and seaman’s eye. ATONs are one tool in the tool kit. The thing about Georgia and the Carolinas is that you need to actively use the whole tool kit. If you are following charted channels and magenta lines you will quickly learn to pass close to the ATON and not wander more than 20 feet away. Other areas of the ICW do not twist and turn with varied depth the like this area does so fewer ATONs are needed to fully mark the waterway. Don’t blame Georgia and the Carolinas for you being an inattentive pilot
Coming into this marina took a great deal of sphincter control. The slip we are in is 10 inches wider than our boat. The slip is 15 feet and our beam is 14.2. We couldn’t make the first slip due to the heavy current and wind. The depth finder had the little 0 depth lines displayed on it. Skinny muddy water …. We are lucky we are in here without and incident. The boat to our left came in with only a single engine. The harbor master warned us and we put defensive fenders on the port side of our boat. Good thing. La Buono Vita used every one of them. No damage to Yes Dear.
Oriental is supposed to have oriental dragons around town. We didn’t find much. Maybe we should have taken a longer walk.
Commercial boats were just up wind to our slip. Ahhh the faint smell of dead shrimp was in the air.
BTW. Sorry I said those things while we were docking 😉
Have you seen those black and white oval bumper stickers that say “OBX?” They’re referring to the Outer Banks. The Outer Banks is a 200-mile-long string of barrier islands and spits off the coast of North Carolina and southeastern Virginia. The Wright brothers’ first flight in a controlled, powered, heavier-than-air vehicle took place on the Outer Banks on December 17, 1903, at Kill Devil Hills near the seafront town of Kitty Hawk on Bodie Island.
Shape up or ship out Origin: This expression originated in the 1940s, during World War II, as a threat that if one didn’t behave in an appropriate military manner one would be sent overseas to a combat zone.
May 16, 2019 Thursday Little River
Inlet, NC (barely) to Topsail Sound, Surf
City, NC 73.1 nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tide: 2.5 ft
Along the Way
Cape Fear (Go watch the movie. It was a good one.)
Entering the Cape Fear River from the ICW we suddenly spun 90 degrees and dropped speed to 0 kts. Mary, at the helm, was taken aback in all the current and churn. She pushed the engines to 2000 rpm bringing speed to a whopping 4.2 kts (which typically is 10 kts). We ducked behind a boat entering through the Cape Fear inlet. The boat appeared familiar with the water so we followed him all the way through.
Beaches and Inlets
Widows Walks and Sun Spots
From 1784 to 1796, there was a colonial state called Franklin added to the original 13. It was the western portion of North Carolina, ceded to the government to pay off the state’s Revolutionary War debt. Franklin eventually became the state of Tennessee.
Taken aback – surprised or shocked by it and you cannot respond at once Origin: Dangerous situation where the wind is on the wrong side of the sails pressing them back against the mast and forcing the ship astern. Most often this was caused by an inattentive helmsman who had allowed the ship to head up into the wind.
May 15, 2019 Wednesday Harbor Marina, Georgetown, SC to Little River Inlet, NC (barely) 59.4 nautical miles.
33°51’18.3″N 78°32’35.2″W 33.855090, -78.543108 Elevation: 0 ft Tide: 5 ft
Along the Way
The landscape was different today than the past couple and no horse flies. We started the day heading upstream on the Waccamaw River (freshwater, no salt marshes). The Atlantic ICW then took us through brackish transitional water into canals and natural salt marsh waterway.
Backside of The Grand Strand . The Grand Strand consists of more than 60 miles along an essentially around the Little River, SC and Winyah Bay (Georgetown), SC. Myrtle Beach is one of gems in the Grand Strand.
Houses along the way (I keep telling myself NO MORE)
I always knew there were poor people in the world. Really poor people and lots of them. I never knew there were so many rich people in the world, really rich people.
We took our chances on the
anchorage. It is just off the Little River Inlet, NC. Wind off the Atlantic is coming
straight at us at 8 kts. If it picks up overnight we’re pooped. The anchorage is
wide open to the elements, but pretty.
‘Where the Crawdads Sing’ is the #1 Best Seller in the New York Times. It takes place in Barkley Cove, a fictional town in North Carolina. Barkley Cove is located near a large saltwater marshland. Tobin Review: The book has the markings of a #1 best seller but isn’t quite there yet. Crawdads can’t sing but they can produce sound in and out of the water. They produce sounds through their scaphognathite, a thin appendage that draws water through the gill cavity.
Pooped Origin: In naval architecture, a poop deck is the rearmost, highest deck of a sailing ship. The name originates from the French word for stern, la poupe, from Latin puppis. If a ship were unlucky enough to be overtaken by a massive, breaking sea which drenched her from astern, she was said to have been “pooped.”
The sea and shore uses of the word
aren’t that different: in both cases, you’re washed out.
May 14, 2019 Tuesday Wadmalaw
Island, SC to Harbor Marina, Georgetown, SC 71.3 nautical
33°21’51.9″N 79°16’56.1″W 33.364414, -79.282244 Elevation: 0 ft Tide: 7.4 ft
Will you still need me? Will you still feed me when I’m 63? Another successful trip around the sun for Mary.
Along the Way
We are still pushing our way through vast salt swamps with occasional signs of human life and towns. Once again we had to retreat to the lower helm to pilot because of the horse flies. I’m a little surprised at all the dolphins and crab traps we see along the entire Atlantic ICW.
Charleston – Home of the Charleston Chew. It’s definitely different seeing Charleston by sea. Last time we saw it, we saw it land.
Dredging – We went through several sections of waterway today that badly needed dredging. We bottomed out and plowed mud a couple of times even at mid to high tide. The sailboat in the below picture is glued to the bottom with a draft of 4.3. We made it through at 3.6.
If there were gold medals for Olympic dock building these two would be gold medal contenders.
Surveillance – dilapidated observation towers
Look at me. Look at me. LOOK AT ME! How can you NOT see me? I am 45 feet long, 17 feet high, 14 feet wide and 40 feet off your bow!!!!! We had our third near miss today from an inattentive skipper.
We tried anchoring in Georgetown harbor three times before we gave up and went into a marina. There are a lot of derelict boats anchored in this snug little harbor. We could get the anchor to stick no problem but with the scope required and the current swing we were only in 1 fathom of water at high tide. If we stayed on the hooked we’d have bottomed out at low tide due to the 4 foot tide.
Georgia peach? South Carolina produces more peaches than Georgia does.
Actually the Charleston Chew was named for the Charleston dance. The Charleston is a dance named for the harbor city of Charleston, SC.
Fathom/Fathom that – to figure something out, fathom it or get to the bottom of it. Origin: A nautical measure equal to six feet, used to measure the depth of water at sea. The word was also as a verb to measure, “to fathom” something.
May 13, 2019 Monday Blackbeard
Creek, Fancy Hall, GA to Wadmalaw Island, SC 107.7nautical miles.
Elevation: 0 ft Tide: 7.4 ft
Muggy weather. When we awoke dew was over all the hard surfaces inside the salon and galley.
Along the Way
Anchors aweigh at 7:00 am we timed our departure to get to Hell Gate at exactly high slack tide. At about 8:30 am the horse flies started buzzing through the upper helm like storm troopers. Dale defended the aft helm and Mary the fore. I wonder how many calories were expended per hour swatting flies. At 9:00am we relinquished the upper helm and retreated to the lower helm. A half hour later needed to return to the upper helm to for better visibility crossing through Hell Gate. We quickly came to terms with the 50+ horse flies clinging to the bimini top. As long as they weren’t hungry they could stay.
Hell Gate was Hell Gate. As we
entered our seaman’s eye told us something wasn’t right and getting worse. REVERSE
COURSE! The tide chart we were using was exactly backwards (we rechecked). Instead
of being at high slack tide it was low slack tide. We needed quickly to change
course and head into the Atlantic to avoid becoming hard and fast.
As long as we had to change course into the Atlantic, after re-checking weather, waves and winds, we set our course through the Atlantic to Edisto River inlet about 50 miles north. The horse flies evacuated.
We traveled outside the 3 mile nautical demarcation line so Dale could legally fish. The catch with the demarcation line is that you can fish without a license but you can’t bring a fish into port without a license. Catch and release was just fine with Dale.
Running in the Atlantic vs ICW
shaved ~20 miles off our trip. The greeting committee was in place when we crossed
back into the Atlantic ICW. We were immediately re-boarded by horse flies.
We’ve left the vast saltwater
marshes in Georgia, trading it for smaller saltwater marshes and small islands
in South Carolina. A different kind of pretty. More intimate.
Holy Mackerel – used to say that one is very surprised, pleased Origin: Recorded from 1803 with uncertain origin, but possibly a euphemism for Holy Mary, with Mackerel being a nickname for Catholics because they ate the fish on Fridays. Another suggested explanation is the practice of selling mackerel on Sundays in the seventeenth century (because its quality deteriorates rapidly), so it was known as a holy fish.
Hard and Fast – rigidly adhered to, without doubt or debate Origin: A ship that was “hard and fast” was beached firmly on land. Land was known as “The hard” slang for Buckler’s Hard, a ship building facility in England.
May 12, 2019 Sunday Brunswick
Landing Marina, Fancy Bluff Creek, Brunswick to Blackbeard Creek, Fancy
Hall, GA 57.3 nautical miles.
31°39’35.4″N 81°12’21.9″W 31.659836, -81.206079 Elevation: 0 ft Tide: 8 ft
A mother is only as happy as their
least happy child. Mary is a very happy mother today.
Happy Mother’s Day to all of you
Along the Way
We escaped from the velcro marina. It
felt like ripping off a band aid.
Horse flies and salt marshes. We
are in Georgia low country somewhere. I’m pretty amazed we have internet out
here as it is so remote.
The intercoastal waterway meanders through a vast area of salt swamp, little creeks, rivers and sounds (big inlets from the ocean). I had no idea the Georgia coast line looked like this. The horse flies were so bad in the upper helm we were eventually driven to the lower helm to pilot the boat. We saw about 8 houses total, three of which are pictured below.
Don’t know how they get here. Must be boat as they are in the middle of nowhere.
A fierce squall come through just a we were approaching a sound.
When it was over we continued on
for another hour or so. Dale fixed Mary a lovely Mothers Day meat of bratwurst
and beans, cooked inside because the bugs outside were so bad.
Absolutely none …. unless you count the horse flies and no-see-ums.
Sound – a sound is a large sea or
ocean inlet larger than a bay and wider than a fjord; or a narrow sea or ocean
channel between two bodies of land. The
Anglo-Saxon word of ‘sund’ which translates to swimming is the origin of the
Son of a Gun (in honor of Mother’s Day) The phrase “son of a gun” originated on ships in the early 18th century, when women were allowed to accompany their husbands or new boyfriends on long sea voyages. During such voyages, mothers gave birth to their children behind a canvas curtain near the midship gun. If the paternity of the newborn was in doubt — and often it was, as many of the women were prostitutes — the child was facetiously registered in the log as the “son of a gun.”